Installing Box Cameras Indoors Guide

By: IPVM Team, Published on May 22, 2018

This guide starts our physical installation for video surveillance series, starting with Box Cameras, one of the oldest and most basic types. Inside we cover:

  • Videos Detailing Grid Ceiling Installs
  • Videos Detailing Drywall/Gypsum Board Installs
  • Why The Correct Fasteners Are Important
  • Which Installer Skills Are Needed
  • Choosing Camera Height
  • Noting Lighting Impact
  • Do Not Ignore Area Cleanup
  • Running Cables and Networking

We provide 7 total videos showing installation steps and methods for mounting one of the most basic camera form factors.

Installing Box Cameras Challenging

Because box cameras are often attached only via a short mount to a ceiling or wall, they can often be installed more quickly and with less skill than those cameras which require ceiling supports, recessed mounting, etc. Despite the easy availability of high-quality equipment, the installation of these cameras often leaves much to be desired.

Fortunately, most of the problems can be easily prevented by being aware of a few critical issues during installation.

Grid Ceiling Installs

First, we take a look at the components for installation:

Then, the next step is connecting the mount to the ceiling grid:

Regardless if clips or other ceiling mounts are used, the penetration hole for the cable is next:

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Drywall ************

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Type of Anchors

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Area *******

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Comments (6)

Undisclosed #1

05/22/18 11:55pm

The size of the penetration hole is not dependent on whether the cable is pre-terminate or not, since you are going to notch it as demonstrated, so that the tile can be removed for service. The hole could be much smaller.

Avatar

Brian Rhodes

IPVMU Certified | In reply to Undisclosed #1 | 05/23/18 01:59pm

This is a good insight, and agree with it.

If the tile is notched, the cable hole can indeed be sized smaller. I've also seen variations that keep the notched 'slug' from the tile and put it back into place, although that seems pretty difficult to keep looking nice over time.

Itamar Kerbel

05/23/18 09:04am

I wish the installers in Israel would read the part about the clean up.

Although I'm pretty sure it problem with more of a global nature....

Avatar

Jon Dillabaugh

Pro Focus LLC
05/24/18 03:12pm

We like the Snap Toggles because you can remove your device without losing the toggler behind the wall, unlike the spring style toggler. The plastic holds it in place. 

We have used the self drilling wall anchors in the past, but they tend to break or strip easily. They also leave a larger hole when removed. 

We have now switched over to Toggler Alligator anchors for most of our low weight applications. They are cheap and effective. They work in Sheetrock and mansonry surfaces too. We stock both the A6 and AF6 anchors, using the A6 where tight to surface mounting is required.

For heavier loads, we try to get a backer board behind the surface and simply use lags or other wood screws. 

For heavier loads in mansonry, we prefer double expansion anchors. They will crack brittle surfaces if over-torqued, so make sure to only tighten to spec. 

Undisclosed Integrator #2

In reply to Jon Dillabaugh | 05/25/18 06:14pm

Agreed on the self drilling anchors. From experience, I think they're awful.

My favorite for drywall has always been simple plastic anchors sized correctly. The secret to drywall is never to punch or hammer through it because it WILL blow out the back side just like masonry does. I have a short awl in my tool kit that I would simply press firmly into drywall to create a hole without drilling, and wiggle it a bit on extraction to widen it for a #8 drywall anchor plug. Press fit then tap firmly into place.

Of course if you have the ability to use toggles, they are superior in most respects.

Undisclosed Manufacturer #3

05/25/18 08:13pm

How about “box camera housings”?  Can you still buy the cheese wedge?

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