Chesapeake & Midlantic | 01/09/14 05:22pm
Get an Optex RX-40PI (commercial warning, I sell that model PIR, along with a lot of other people), and run the N/C out to an Altronix RB5 module (the world's best relay, which I do not sell, sadly).
The CX-702 is, frankly, overkill. It does have an alarm out, which is nice, but the RX-40PI and the RB5 duplicates the functionality for about half the price. Plus the RX-40PI has pet immunity, which is nice. The CX-702 is for extremely large areas and the RX-40PI is for relatively small areas, say 40 x 40.
Basically, you'll run the alarm out from the motion into the alarm panel and also into the relay. The NC contact on the motion is a momentary, and you need a latching relay, which where the RB5 comes in. You'll also power the relay with the 12VDC coming off the panel. Easy peasy.
IPVMU Certified | 01/10/14 07:47pm
Here's a quick definition of Relay types:
- Form A: This is the Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST) type, where the circuit is normally open and the relay contacts close when the relay coil is energised. (Think of your hand as the coil, and turning a lightswitch ON is the contacts.)
- Form B: This is the Double Pole, Single Throw (DPST) type, that functions in the opposite way - contacts are closed when no power is applied, but open when power is applied. (Your hand is the coil, turning a lightswitch OFF is the contacts.)
- Form C: If you stick one relay of each of the above types together, it becomes a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) relay. This is harder to visualize, but one hand would simultaneously turn two opposing switches ON / OFF. Both relays are powered by the same coil, but depending on the type of circuit you need to make, a SPDT is 'universally useful'. SPDTs are also called 'Form C' relays.
(If you are wondering, a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) relay is two switches together that throw the same direction with one coil.)
When it comes to which 'throw type' is best, it depends on the circuit. For example, If you want a camera to turn on a warning LED when it detects motion, you need a 'normally open' set of contacts. When the coil is energized, the circuit closes.
However, if you want to use a motion sensor, you probably want a 'Normally closed' set of contacts - the electronic circuit is complete and stable until the sensor detects movement and 'breaks' or opens, the circuit. This wakes the camera up to a big change in the normally quiet circuit.
These logic examples are very simple, and not always how 'relay forms' are used. Often relays are used to allow small amounts of DC electricity to change large amounts of AC electricity. How relay logic is applied can be very specific and potentially dangerous if misunderstood.
Also: there is an 'alternate' definition of Form B relay that presumes two circuits are normally open/closed and then closed/opened by the energised coil. However, most (low-voltage) electronics do not use this definition.
After working on this project off and on as time allowed, I wanted to update this after finally coming up with a complete and working solution. It appears that I was overcomplicating things from the start and after getting all the pieces in hand, the solution is actually much easier than originally planned. After taking all of your suggestions into consideration, I picked up an RB5 module and the necessary detectors and here's what I ended up with for a wired solution:
- Honeywell HPS123 Power Supply
- Optex RX-40PI motion detector
- Bosch DS-DS939 360 degree motion detector
And the wirelss solution:
- Inovonics EN4216MR 16-zone wireless receiver
- Optex EX-35R wireless motion detector
As mentioned, both solutions connect to an Axis P8221 I/O device. The wireless solution integrates just as it did with my Optex beams scenario (motion detector -> wireless receiver -> wired to P8221). With the wired device, it turns out that I didn't need a relay at all. All I did was send power to each motion detector and then send both alarm wires directly into the P8221 (one went to Common, the other to one of the 8 inputs). Brian: your description didn't really click with me until I was finally able to get all the pieces together (including the relay) and start wiring things up. That's when I realized that I could skip at least one piece of hardware in the process. Moving forward, I will experiment with different detectors, but since I got the architecture down, things will be much easier moving forward.
Anyway, thanks again for the suggestions and support!
IPVMU Certified | 04/12/14 12:39am
Awesome! Thanks for the update.