IPVMU Certified | 01/24/17 05:28pm
Is the problem on mortise strikes or surface strikes?
I'm not sure but I ran into a site that is having constant problems with the Hess 4500 series strikes we installed at a customer site, we had 3 of them start sticking and quit releasing. After hours and hours of troubleshooting, using every function of a meter, replacing wire, checking door clearances and HVAC pressures, determined the strike was bad as it would stick in your hand not installed in the door. Hess used to be a solid name, but i am considering after this last nightmare whether i want to use these things moving forward as they appear to be junk now.
I have seen an uptick recently in DOA's from HES on the 5200 series strikes. Not ready to give up on them yet as I have had far worse experiences with every other manufacturer I have tried.
One of the sites I work at had all 4 hes 9600
Lbms broke off in less than a month
Had a HES 5200 recently that they missed drilling the tapped holes in the body that hold the strikem plate onto the body. Didn;t believe the tech over the phone until he sent a picture to prove it. Manufacturing defects happen, but the LBM option on HES electric stirkes (more often the 9600/9500 surface mounts) has never been super reliable. Over time, i have had the little "flapper" get loose and not really spring back into place like it should and the door status stops reporting properly. This is not a field repairable device, so either go out and install a recessed mount door status sensor in the door frame or replace the entire lock, which is still working as a lock.
In applications, like grout-filled door frames where drilling in extra holes for a separate DSS is a horror show, the LBM option saves a lot of time and labor, but it needs to be more reliable over time.
Not sure if related, but I just replaced a nine month old 4500 last Thursday due to a unknown defect. Customer (of course an hour away) said the lock was not unlocking with a keyfob. But it would unlock with a software command. (weird, huh?). got on site, checked ACU, power etc and the lock seemed to work. Tested the fob about 20 times, cleaned up and left. Got called back a week later. Checked wiring and wasn't sure if lock was totally getting enough amps, so I dedicated a separate power supply to lock circuit. Tested about 25 times and A-OK, so left again. Got called back a third time and customer was not happy. Brought a replacement lock just in case. Physically removed the lock, checked wiring, (all good) and finally could confirm that the lock was not responding consistently. I applied direct voltage to it to test. The lock would semi-trigger hang in the unlocked position and not reset. I changed it out with a new one and seems to be working ok.