Exit Devices For Access Control Tutorial

That's a good point, and I'll edit the post to include specialty door raceway drills, like:

The times I've watched people field-drill solid wood doors for Assa Integrated Wiegand locks, are the most stressful 15 minutes of almost any install; that includes drilling holes in the roof of brand new $30,000-$50,000 SUVs for mobile LPR cameras.

We use (almost exclusively) the electrified trim function.  The difference is in how they function.  Electronic trim activates a solenoid which allows for the outside lever to "release" but the door remains latched until the user turns the lever and walks through the door.  The QEL uses a motor to actually pull the rods or latch cables and then the user simply pulls the door open.  You have to be careful though.  The electronic trim (in some hardware series) does not allow for key-override, so if this is a front door where a knox box is required, you might have to get creative.  There is a slight delay in the QEL where the electronic trim is instant.

There are definite benefits, and in some cases near-requirements, for using electrified trim. That said, it's definitely not always the right choice.

Electric trim is great and occasionally required (depending on AHJ) for stairwell doors where a panic device is required. Since they're stairwells, the doors are required to maintain a "positive latch" so that they can't be blown or pulled open by a fire, but they must be unlocked to allow free passage in and out. They're also very quiet, so they're great in cases where the loud noise of an EL/ELR (or even a QEL/MLR) wouldn't work.

The problem with them is that similar to my post above about their duty ratings, they are simply not as robust as EL/ELR or QEL/MLR products. I won't say it's common, but I've probably seen more ET's fail than I have anything else on panic devices over time.

Additionally, while this is probably a niche scenario, electrified trim also will not work when paired with a door operator, since the trim doesn't actually unlatch the door. The very thing that makes it the right fit for stairwell doors is what prevents it from working with operators. I can't tell you how many times I've seen people specify electrified trim on a door with an operator because it's the least-expensive option, only to realize after it's installed that it won't quite work...

That's interesting.  Which options are taking EL's place?

I would disagree that there is "absolutely no reason to use EL function."

Simply put, the duty rating of all QEL/MLR devices (at least all that I am aware of) is lower than their EL/ELR counterparts, and in some cases substantially so. For extremely high-traffic or high-abuse doors (i.e. schools, hospitals, or other similar locations), this can make a substantial difference in maintenance and lifespan, especially because the QEL-variants are substantially lower-powered and can't overcome improper door alignments as easily, etc. Not a big deal for the first few years of an install, but when a door has been sitting and baking in the sun for 5 years and being used 500 times a day, it becomes an issue.

There's no question that QEL/MLR is becoming more and more popular to the point that EL/ELR is almost rare, but that doesn't mean they're always the right fit. If it's new construction and panic devices are required, I will always lean towards an EL/ELR device over a QEL/MLR device if the noise from the EL/ELR will not be an issue. They're much more robust devices and will have far fewer issues in the long run.

why do I need to put an electronic lock to an emergency door , if the code state that for any circumstance you shall not lock people inside your facility and they shall be able to egress easily !!?

Because you can lock people out, or keep them outside and only permit them access through the door if they are authorized.

That's a Detex part:

I just ran into one of these, today. It looks wacky in the field. Also, if you're not careful, it will take a chunk of flesh as you try to pass through the gate, as it sticks out about 3 inches into the opening.

Does anyone have any idea how to modify this for access control? The panic bar would work with a HES 9400 or 9600, if this were inside, or on a proper door jamb. I'm not sure what to go with, other than scrapping the whole thing and starting over.