Updating An Old Hard Wired Residence Burg Options?

There are quite a few options depending on preference. We have used DSC Power series or Neo as both are hybrid panels that can take wired and wireless devices. There are also options for Internet or Cell based communicators that give you remote apps for arm/disarm, Z-Wave automation (lights, locks, etc)

I'm sure others will chime in with additional manufacturers who have similar offerings. It all comes down to what products you are comfortable working with, cot and support.

Good luck

Most of the larger, more commonly mentioned manufacturers (DSC, Bosch, DMP) have hybrid systems.  Typically you get 8-10 on-board zones hardwired (one powered fire zone).  After that, you can either use a zone expander card or just terminate the wires to wireless modules.  The wires can be terminated to wireless transmitters almost anywhere in your environment and you can continue to expand wirelessly to easily accommodate your needs.  For communications either cellular which is cleaner, or network if available.  If you want to use apps, you will almost certainly have to use cellular or network.  There is a small monthly fee for the cellular, but you have the security of knowing it can't be cut; or network which is typically free, but subject to tampering.  In most homes and businesses, the network wiring is part of the land-line wiring.  Cut one, cut all.  Good luck to you.

The panel in the photo looks like a Honeywell (Ademco) Vista 15P, six hardwired zones on the PCB. The module sitting at the bottom of the box might be a siren driver.

With the number of wires I see entering the box, I think the panel, if a Vista 15P, was poorly selected and poorly installed.  I would've used a Vista 20P providing 8 hardwire zones on the board and capable of 64 hardwire/wireless zone expansion.  The Vista 15P can be expanded up to 40 zones.

How many devices are there on the keypad bus?  Looks like at least 3.

Both Vista 20P and 15P have a max aux power limit of 600ma.

I try to use existing wiring and as much of the existing equipment when upgrading an alarm system.  Inspect and test! Assess power requirement!

I use wireless in residential when there is no alarm system at all, and then I use Honeywell Vista 20P with wireless sensors.  This gives me the option of outdoor audible devices and more options for using cellular/ip modules.  

I looked at Simplisafe's advertising and I don't think I would put that in my own home or in the home of a family member.  It looks too DIY with few options.

In this situation we typically install an icom or cellcom from DMP, we can easily takeover monitoring without reprograming the panel and add z-wave and smartphone control to the home. If he's looking for a whole new system, I would try and use all of the hardwired stuff. Wireless is great, but why install wireless when the hardwiring is already there! 

You can use the existing equipment, adding a Honeywell 5881 receiver or change out a keypad to a 6150RF or a 6160RF, and that allows a variety of wireless sensors.  

Calculate all the current draw (on alarm) of all devices using Aux Power, and do not exceed 600ma without using an aux power supply.

If the owner doesn't want the system monitored, you can still have remote control and text messages via Smartphone using an Envisalink EVL-4. This device draws 65ma, so you must factor it into the total current draw while the system is in alarm.

If the owner wants cellular/ip monitoring, a Honeywell iGSMV4G can provide both Ethernet and GSM pathways. Check the Vista's chip for the software version. It has to be 9.12 or higher to work with Honeywell's Total Connect 2.0.  The latest version is over 10.24.

If the Vista's panel version is lower than 9.12, you can order a Honeywell iGSMV4G with a Vista chip so you can upgrade the software in the Vista panel. 

The iGSMV4G has it's own power supply, but also draws 10ma from the Vista's aux power, so factor this into power calculations.

It uses AT&T cellular, so check to see if the area has adequate coverage by going to AT&T website, and check signal strength before final install.

I did this @ my place on the cheap when we moved in.  Ripped out the ADT panel and box, kept the sensors and wiring.

I think I spent about $130 for a new panel, box, battery, and controller.  Bought DSC.

It's been solid for 8 years or so.