Stripped Security Screws In The Field: How Often And What Do You Do?

One trick to try if you have time onsite to do other work:

Get some 2-part epoxy, like JB Weld or similar, mix up enough for a dab to cover and fill the stripped out screw head. 

Wait for the mixed epoxy to get a little tacky (maybe 90 seconds) and then press another screw head first into the epoxy dab. 

Press long enough so it sticks, then let it dry.  A minimum of two or three hours.

Then return, tighten your driver/drill chuck onto the screw sticking out, and slowly back things out/unscrew.

The epoxy bond may break eventually, but usually things are strong enough to unscrew.  You'll need to replace the security screw with a new, unstripped one.

Cameras rated for outdoor use often have stainless steel screws so they won't rust. Stainless steel is soft, even to a low power driver.

The trick is to use a driver or drill with an adjustable clutch, and only use just enough torque to barely seat the screw. Use high-quality bits and be careful to keep the tool straight while turning.

What you describe sounds like galling. It's a big problem with stainless to stainless (eg: stainless screw/bolt into stainless nut/threaded hole), but also happens a lot with some aluminums.

I personally have never encountered a stripped screw in the field but it's known to happen. What I'd suggest is to get the screw to engage the threads screwing it in by hand the first few rotations and only after that using the electric screwdriver. There's always a possibility of the screw engaging the thread incorrectly and stripping itself if you start out with the electric screwdriver. This is especially true for the chinesium screws. If it's for indoors, one missing screw isn't going to cause you trouble but it could be a bigger headache in an outdoor camera.

The first thing to do is to break off the center post. Fairly easy to do with a small flat tip. Have done this on accident many times trying to open a camera and didn't have the appropriate security bit tip. After that a small extractor may work. 

theres always the hacksaw/cutting wheel groove and a flathead screwdriver.  I see alot of broken center posts due to "tweeker" screwdrivers being used instead of security torx. As for the extractor and post issue, I would use a drill sized to fit in hex hole and drill/break off post or needlenose, or last resort... tweeker