Is There An Electric Strike That Will Work With This Mortise Lock?

The orientation of the bolt makes this a 'deadbolt lock'.  The latch is really a 'dead latch' too, but that doesn't really impact strike selection.

I think an HES 1600CDB with the 1NTD faceplate would work:

You'd need to measure the latch spacing to be sure, but I've seen these strikes used for deadbolt locks with success.

Yes, you disable the deadbolt internally(which results in the thumb-turn spinning freely) and replace the faceplate on the mortise lock with one that has no hole for the deadbolt to travel through, i.e the new faceplate would only have a cut-out for the latch.

You can then use most any heavy duty electric strike made for mortise locks, i.e. HES, Von Duprin, etc.

Getting the door opened , no problem. However, the spring loaded latch will retract across the keeper of the electric strike and allow the door to close .. how would an extended deadbolt allow the door to close once it is opened the first time? Wouldn't it hit the keeper in the strike and stop there?

Also, one caveat to using an electric strike on a door/frame like this (from best I can tell from the angle of the picture): I see a block wall on the outside that extends perpendicular to the door frame.  Two things that can sometimes hang you up on doors like this are 1) making sure the door frame is deep enough to allow the full depth of the electric strike body to be cut out of the return of the door frame, i.e these heavy duty strikes usually require between 1 13/16" and 1 15/16" of depth.  This brings us to the 2nd caveat, and that is once an electric strike is installed where there is a tight perpendicular wall or surface next to the door frame, the thickness and bulk of the strike keeper may not allow the keeper to fully open, i.e. it will hit the perpendicular surface  before the latch is fully out of and clear of the strike cavity ... especially a concern for longer latches.

= electrified mortise case lock instead?

Update: There was an additional door that already had a frame strike that we integrated into the system as well.  Today after my experience with the other door, I went over and took another look. Turns out it was the same set up originally. 

It appears whoever installed the strike changed out the mortise guts to one that has a button push to engage/disengage the non secure side handle.  The button is just beneath the latch in the first picture.  There is no deadbolt and no one there has ever found a key to that lock so no idea if the keyway would allow for manually unlocking.  

Would it be simpler to get a locksmith door/hardware guy to supply a mortise replacement similar to above?  I'm actually worried that if I leave the existing mortise deadbolt in, it extends so far that the latch wouldn't catch if I cut the frame to accommodate it,  unless I made some type of staircase cut on the frame  

It looks like a Sargent mortise lock. Make sure the strike that you choose says it's compatible with Sargent. With mortise locks, unlock cylindrical locks, you really have to pay close attention to which locks they are compatible with. The latch and anti pick change locations based on the manufacture so that has to be accountanted for. 

Generally it's just a matter of getting the correct hafa plate.