Install Pet Peeve: Camera Mounting Holes Too Small

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Ethan Ace
Feb 16, 2017

We've been seeing a problem on some cameras lately: mounting holes are too small to actually fit common fasteners. 

Example, here's a dome we just unboxed to mount for testing. The screws pass through the base of the dome, about a 1-1/4" recess. But about 2/3rds of the way through, the recess tapers and the screw head gets stuck. You can see here that even at the widest point there's not much play to fit a small machine screw (8-32, I prefer not going smaller than that).

A drywall screw gets stuck a little more than halfway through, as well.

The problem is the head gets lodged in there, then the screw head strips out and you can't tighten it or loosen it. Or, if you're extra unlucky the screw bends and then snaps off later when you think it's mounted. 

I'm not sure what the solution is here, because:

  1. The screws included usually fit but they're often low quality and strip out, or not appropriate for what you're trying to mount to.
  2. Screws that small just don't feel sturdy to me, anyway.
  3. I could enlarge the hole by drilling it out slightly but that's likely to void warranty in the field.

Is anyone else encountering this? We've seen it on a number of manufacturers. What do you do in these instances?

Manufacturers: Do you actually try a variety of fasteners through your mounting holes during design? It does not seem like it. 

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UI
Undisclosed Integrator #1
Feb 17, 2017

1/8" toggle bolts

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Jon Dillabaugh
Feb 17, 2017
Pro Focus LLC

I hardly ever use the included hardware. Depending on the mounting surface, I keep a variety of #6 wood screws of various lengths that usually fit inside even the tightest holes. The ones I have had the most trouble with are cheap eyeball domes that I run into on jobs.

In fact, I had to move some crappy analog eyeballs today when upgrading a customer to a VMS server and they needed a few of their existing cameras moved a little. The original installer screwed the cameras to the grid, which I hate doing. I prefer to mount on the ceiling tile using a backer board to span the grid on the backside. This process takes a little more time, but ensures that the weight of the camera doesn't sag the tile over time.

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Paul Grefenstette
Feb 17, 2017

reem out the holes with a bit and use larger hardware -- i hate most of the hardware that's included in most cameras as its bad aluminum screws that strip easy  

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Armando Perez
Feb 17, 2017
Hoosier Security and Security Owners Group • IPVMU Certified

This drives me nuts. (Well, to be honeat it drives our installers nuts) We do not use supplied hardware either. The answer? I have the guys figure out how to make it work or go with a different camera, then never use that one again.

JR
John Robinson
Feb 17, 2017

Totally understand the issue.  However, we've had great luck with these self tapping drywall screws from Home Depot.  You can get a box of 1000 for about $20.  They have the purple label and come in 1 1/4" or 1 5/8"

 

For 80% of our interior work (drop tile ceilings) these  have been a life saver.  We used to use toggle bolts and take the tile out and sit on the floor and mount, and this has cut install time by 90%.  Simply position the camera to the closest grid corner, line up 2 of the 3 holes to mount to the grid and drill/drive right into the grid. If necessary make a small notch in the tile for the wire to pass through.  It's arguably more secure than just mounting to an accoustical tile and much much faster

A tech with camera in hand, a cordless driver and a step ladder will have the camera mounted in under 1 minute.

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Jon Dillabaugh
Feb 17, 2017
Pro Focus LLC

Isn't mounting directly to the grid is restricted in some jurisdictions? It also permanently puts holes in the grid, which are far tougher to replace than a ceiling tile if the camera needs moved. I also think that the fastest way isn't usually the correct way. Cutting every corner to hurry through a job is a bad way to approach this industry. 

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