Access Control Locks For Double Doors Without Mullion?

The 'pole in the middle' is part of the frame called a 'mullion'.

How do the doors currently latch? Most likely via vertical latch retraction rods, like this:

This may be what you mean by 'electrified panic bar', but using electrified latch retraction is the most common approach for this by far.

You may be able to modify the upper frame to accept an electric strike, but I've never seen much success. Rods are a problem, but rigging up strikes are too.

I could be wrong (Brian let me know) but it seems most times electric latch retraction has issues is when installers try to retrofit. In past jobs we tried to use retrofit kits from both the bar manufacturer and third parties, and both were troublesome. But buying the full electrified bar seemed to have better results.

I'll agree here, though, that mortise-less door sets are a pain no matter which route you take.

Try Assa ES-8000 V-Locks if the doors are self closing.

No because the locks are set into the ceiling or floor.

Those V-Locks are interesting, never seen them before.

Be cautious when considering locks mounted on top frames or threshold/floor.

For interior openings, the top frame/header is typically not secured very well, if at all, into the header and cripple studs. Unlike a 'pull' maglock that uses the strength of the frame profile to great mechanical advantage, other mechanical locks (bolts/strikes) mounted inside them in a cutout may 'float' too much and allow the door to be kicked open.

Also, floor mounted devices get filthy. Dirt, grime, ice, snow, floorwax, etc all can contribute to a floor mounted device not working well after a short period of time.

One thing you didn't mention is whether the door is a fire rated assembly. You should know before doing any modifications to the door. Also helpful would be to know if both leaves are "active". If one leaf is fixed and used manual or auto flush bolts, a mortise lock could be used on the active leaf.

For instances where I'm in need of help like this, I always reach out to the technical team at Assa Abloy or Allegion. Their job is to help resolve these issues...and they help for free...a great resource to be sure. Good luck.

I prefer good electrified latch retraction. But we look for cost effective alternatives.

Often we find that only one door needs to open from the outside. In these cases we are often able to install a strike with an electrified hinge or door cord in the 'fixed' door.

Sometimes the fixed door is pinned shut with manual flush bolts (butterflies) in which case there should be no exit device on this door on the inside so the person exiting will naturally use the door with the exit device, the moveable leaf of this double door. Please check life safety code and the AHJ to make sure you are allowed to do this in your application.

Sometimes the fixed door has vertical rods operated by an exit device. In this case you need to make sure that the appropriate door coordinator is installed to ensure that the door with the strike closes first and the door that latches to the strike closes second.

We have used the SDC LR100 Quiet Duo for double doors and vertical rods with good success. Just make sure the doors and the rods are lined up and in good working order. Sometimes you only need to use one for the active, entry leaf and keep the second door purely mechanical. Depends on the needs of the end user.

I've kept quiet on this up to now, but I have to jump in now.

1.) That ES8000 lock appears to be nothing more than what effectively amounts to a drop bolt. It will effectively function as a maglock, because it doesn't appear to have any mechanical override (I can't find an actual cutsheet to verify). That means it's effectively as useless as a maglock or a drop bolt, both of which have code issues and generally are a pain in the rear for someone who actually wants a secure facility.

2.) Vertical rods are the devils creation. If the door doesn't have a mullion, INSTALL ONE. Any supposed savings you think you might be getting will be eaten up over the life of the devices, especially if it's a frequently-used door. If it's a door where deliveries frequently come in, install a keyed removable mullion so you can remove the mullion for deliveries and reinstall it afterwards.

3.) If you MUST use vertical rods, do yourself a favor and use ELECTRIC latch retraction (not motorized) from a reputable manufacturer (i.e. not Hager, Falcon, SDC, Yale, Arrow, Detex Cal Royal, Corbin Russwin, or any other garbage manufacturer) and ensure they are installed correctly. For all but very specific applications, i would specify less-bottom rod so that only the top rods are installed and the bottom rods don't get damaged, the strike filled with gunk, or any number of a thousand other issues you're pretty much guaranteed to have. If you have a high-security application and you absolutely must go with top and bottom rods, do yourself a favor and train someone in maintenance on how to clean the strike plates and recognize issues with the bottom rods.

4.) Do not, under any circumstances, regardless of what the architect tells you, install concealed vertical rods. I don't care if you think it looks bad, I don't care if it doesn't match the aesthetic, unless the architect is personally footing the bill for the maintenance on them, the answer is no.