IPVMU Certified | 09/08/15 11:37pm
Terminology here is important. Do you need a mortise-mount strike, or surface/rim? Just how 'low' do you need? When you say 'low depth', what dimension do you mean?
Call out the critical dimension below on this example:
We cover the basics in our Selecting the Right Electric Strike guide to help navigate the many variables in play here.
Here is an image from the door. I know I can just cut the door, but the customer would rather I dont.
The HES 8000 series is intended for frame prep like this and requires no cutting. But it'll work only with cylindrical doorsets, not mortise. I didn't see mention of what sort of lock it was here, so maybe it won't work for you. I don't think there's a mortise version.
I use almost exclusively HES products, but like Rob states above the 8000 (and 8500) series are no good. Do not use them, you will have to replace it. I would talk the customer into useing the 5000 series pictured, you will not be dissapointed. Point out that if they ever want to stop using the strike they can simply make sure that it is set to fail secure and then the door will function like it would before cutting in a strike.
LONG Building Technologies | 09/11/15 06:50pm
The best option to avoid cutting the frame is usually to use an electrified lockset. In addition to avoiding frame modification, this also eliminates binding issues caused by sagging doors, weatherstripping, etc. And it looks much more professional.
I just want to say this is a fantastic discussion with numerous excellent comments. Remember to vote up comments to recognize your colleagues!
David, It doesn't fit all applications but for most cylindrical locksets try Securitrons UnLatch motorized strike series. No frame cuts required generaly.